Monday, 5 December 2016

Calico heaven or maybe....Hell!!!!

Calico, Smhalico...If I have to see another piece of that muslin cloth I'm going throw a fit but I'm super excited to show you my final toile piece. There is a few images in this blog tonight so keep scrolling and i'll talk you through it :-)

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Lay plan to begin

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Reverse of bust dart
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Inserting bust darts

I started out with my lay plan to see the most effective way to get the most out of my fabric and measure how much fabric to buy for my final piece. Some pattern pieces needed to be cut on the fold and some pieces like the fronts, I only needed one of each. It worked out that I needed roughly 3mtrs of fabric just for one dress!! WOAHHH!! Once I had cut all my pieces, I started with the two front pieces and putting in the bust darts.


Right sides together for french seam part 1

Finished french seam
Wrong sides together for FS part 2

Kerry had asked me if I had thought about how I'm going to finish off my seams and well, I looked at her rather blank. It's taken me all my effort to think about what I want for lunch so seams were the last thing on my mind lol. She suggested that I could try sampling a french seam as I gave a nicer, structured and supportive seam than the over-locker. I'm always game for a challenge so french seams it is!! It might not be 100% clear from my photos but the first part of the french seam is sewing the right (correct) sides together allowing a 0.5mm seam allowance, then part 2 is folding the two pieces of fabric back on themselves so you get the wrong sides together and sewing them together allowing a 0.75mm seam allowance. Them you fold back to bring the right sides together and TAA-DAAAHHHH, That's your french seam.

Starting to see my design

Too much excess on the shoulder
Flip the lapels back

After sewing my fronts to the back piece together, I popped it on the stand to see initially what it looked like. I was a little concerned as it didn't have an open chest front like in my design. I soon realised that I had added extra to my pattern to flip back the lapels. Phew....I nearly cut them off to expose the chest. I also found that I had too much excess on the shoulder so needed to snip off about 2cm of excess. How nice do those darts look? So proud of myself..


First, large collar

Second, smaller collar eased in
Garment design in the middle

Fast-forward about 45mins and I had constructed my two collars..CHECK OUT THOSE POINTS!! and eased them into the neck seam, which was no easy task but I did it. Having a quick look at again my garment design, I can really see it coming to life. It's so exciting and I'm really, really enjoying this part of the degree.

  
First sleeve in!!  
 
Only a couple of tucks...Impressed




This next and last step to my toile was adding in the sleeves and I was nervous, I'll admit. I'd never put in a sleeve until now and I was a shaking mess!! I tacked it in place, matching up the centre seams and took off for the sewing machine. Let out a deep breath and got stuck in. I was absolutely thrilled with my effort as I had only 2 tucks and it fit fantastically. Go me!! 





In other news. Last week, Igersbirmingham launched their first ever exhibition and I was thrilled to have been chosen as a featured photographer. If you fancy a giggle then check out my Facebook live video here and if you enjoy taking a photo or two and would lime to make some new photo buddies then check out the new website here

As always, Thank you for reading, looking and listening. I really do appreciate all your support. Abi xx

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